Seville welcomes visitors with open arms, a big smile and a glass of sherry in hand. It is aesthetically splendid, after enjoying a centuries-long monopoly on trade with the Americas, but what really captures the imagination is the way of life: zestier than a freshly squeezed orange juice, hotter than the midday sun but never too hectic to enjoy a siesta. The largest city in Andalusia is a superb place to learn Spanish.
The sun blazes so hot that many city centre streets are covered with giant sunshades and the city rooftops are dotted with swimming pools… but where will you find the time for that siesta when there’s so much so see and do?
Start the day with… fresh orange juice y desayuno andaluz
photo: fvanrenterghem
Seville’s oranges are world famous and the juice they produce is simply perfect. Bright, tangy and very… err… orangey, a glass of freshly squeezed zumo de naranja natural (not ‘de bote’ – from the bottle) is the perfect way to start the day. For an authentic sevillano combination, have it with a slice of bread, smeared with olive oil or manteca colorá, and served with tomato and salt. Alternatively, tostadas with rich, dried Spanish hams are a meatier way to break your fast.
Barrio de Santa Cruz
photo: Jose Luis Filpo
Santa Cruz was Seville’s old judería. Nowadays, the winding streets and passages provide the perfect escape from the hot Andalusian sun. There are plenty of little stores to help empty tourists’ pockets but also plenty of great little tapas bars if you need to sit down and get out of the sun.
A number of little squares, including the Plaza de Santa Cruz, the Plaza de los Venerables and Plaza de los Refinadores nestle in among the streets and churches. The barrio borders the Jardines del Real Alcázar, where you may well bump into the resident peacocks.
At night, the barrio buzzes with activity as locals “ir de tapas” in the many little bars that line the streets.
Watch the young toreros in training at Parque del Alamillo
The Parque del Alamillo is one of the largest parks in Seville; popular with joggers, dog walkers and… toreros. On Monday, Wednesday and Thursday afternoons, you can watch the young bull fighters as they practise their skills against bicycles with horns attached, ridden by other young toreros at the Escuela de Tauromaquia de Sevilla.
The Alcázar & Cathedral
photo: John Picken
Well into its second millennium, the Alcázar stands south of the cathedral across Plaza del Triunfo.
After starting life as a Moorish palace called Al-Muwarak, 11 centuries later, the Alcázar is still an official residence of the Spanish royal family. Over the years, many of the regal residents – including the wonderfully named Peter the Cruel – have added their own personal touch to the palace, resulting in an eclectic and charming place to spend a few hours.
The gardens are particularly pleasant and offer some respite from the hot sunshine.
Meanwhile, the Catedral de Santa María de la Sede is so huge that you will struggle to see all of the many intricate details in a single visit… but you will have fun trying. The world’s largest gothic cathedral has 80 chapels, Christopher Columbus’s tomb and an immeasurable wealth of religious bling.
During the reconquista, the advancing Catholics were so charmed by the Giralda tower that they insisted the retreating Moors left their minaret standing. UNESCO calls it “a unique artistic achievement, a masterpiece of Almohad architecture”.
Siesta
photo: Keith Hammond
For a truly authentic experience, a menu del dia followed by a siesta is in order. Unlike their cousins in Madrid, sevillanos still like to go home for a siesta in the afternoon. Businesses and shops shut down between 2pm and 5pm during the hottest hours of the day and workers retreat for a big lunch and, if possible, a snooze.
You’ll be grateful you got forty winks when your evening gets going.
Catch a movie at the Cine Cervantes
El Cine Cervantes dates back to 1873 and is Seville’s oldest cinema. It may not have the latest gadgets – you can leave your 3D goggles at home – but it’s got a huge screen and part of the treat is when the lights come on to reveal the beautiful, old-fashioned interior.
Cine Cervantes, 33 Calle Amor de Dios
Tapas & drinks around Alameda de Hércules
photo: Helen T
Once the air has cooled down a little, the Alameda de Hércules comes to life. Home to dozens of tapas bars, restaurants and cafes, this long promenade is much loved by locals. Children play in the square late into the night as the bars and terraces fill up with people of all ages… Anadulsians are famously social and it isn’t just the twenty-somethings who stay out late here.
Although there are plenty of great restaurants in Seville, tapas are the way forward. Start late, finish later and enjoy the flavours of Andalusia. Check out this blog (in Spanish) for reviews of local tapas bars.
Flamenco
photo: Filipa Machado
Seville is the place for flamenco. There are many bars and venues that provide excellent entertainment every night of the week, with Casa de la Memoria de al-Andalus proving consistently popular.
For more about the history of Flamenco, Giles Tremlett’s Ghosts of Spain: Travels Through a Country’s Hidden Past has a great chapter on it. In the mean time, check out Camarón and Paco de Lucia and enjoy two masters at work.
Feria de Abril
photo: peribanyez
The sevillanos are legendary for their joie de vivre and Feria de Abril is the perfect time to join them. The fair officially begins at midnight on Monday two weeks after the Holy week and runs until the Sunday. Each day begins at midday with a parade of carriages and riders carrying the great and the good of Seville to La Real Maestranza, Spain’s oldest bullring.
During the day you can watch Spain’s top matadors in action or simply enjoy the sight of the local ladies dressed in bright gitana-inspired flamenco dresses. At night the action moves to a giant tented village that springs up during the festival.
Along the bank of the Guadalquivir River, casetas (special tents) belonging to everyone from local aristocrats to local anarchists keep going until six in the morning. Some are private, some are public… just take a stroll and find the atmosphere that is right for you.
Take a day trip to Cadiz or Jerez
photo: cabezadeturco
If you want a change of scenery, you have plenty of options nearby.
Cadiz is an enchanting city. Jutting out into the Atlantic, it has one of the longest (and nicest) city beaches in Europe, a legendary carnival and a huge range of historical sites to visit. Like elsewhere in Andalusia, the Moorish influence is strong and day trips to Tangiers are available from the port.
You can get from Seville to Cadiz for less than €10 with the bus or train and could well spot the resident flamingos on the journey!
Jerez is the home of sherry and has that wonderful laidback atmosphere that you can only find in wine producing regions. The tapas are excellent (and cheaper than Seville), the finos flow freely and the winding streets of the old town offer a taste of traditional Andalusia. The weeks of the Fiestas de la Vendimia in September are a great time to visit, as the town celebrates the grape harvest with flamenco, food and concerts.
Find out more about our Spanish courses in Seville here.
What do you think?